"Wild Yellowstone" Lamar Valley
Bonus Adventure: A Journey into the Heart of Lamar Valley
Just beyond the sweeping grandeur of the Beartooth Highway lies one of the most breathtaking—and wildest—places in North America: Lamar Valley, in the northeast corner of Yellowstone National Park. Known as “America’s Serengeti,” it’s home to wolves, bears, bison, elk, pronghorn, bald eagles, and many other species.
This is not a drive-by moment. This is an opportunity to experience the untamed West in its raw, rugged beauty.
Getting There from Red Lodge
- Distance: ~95 miles
- Drive Time: 3 to 3.5 hours one way (depending on stops, weather, and wildlife)
Directions:
- From downtown Red Lodge, take US 212 West (Beartooth Highway).
- Climb through Rock Creek Canyon and over Beartooth Pass (10,947 ft).
- Continue past Top of the World Store, then descend into Wyoming.
- Drive through Cooke City, then Silver Gate.
- Enter Yellowstone National Park through the Northeast Entrance (a park pass is required or can be purchased).
- Continue west on the Grand Loop Road—Lamar Valley begins just minutes after the entrance.
What Makes Lamar Valley Special
- Wolves: This is the best place in the lower 48 to spot them. Bring binoculars or a spotting scope and get out early.
- Bison: Massive herds often graze near the road. Calves, also known as “red dogs,” are typically seen in the spring and early summer.
- Grizzly & Black Bears: Especially active near carcasses and in meadows. Do not exit your vehicle to approach.
- Birds of Prey: Look for eagles, hawks, osprey, and harriers patrolling the skies.
- Raw, Untouched Beauty: The feeling of true wilderness, echoing with the calls of animals and the silence of space.
Required Essentials:
- Park entry pass or card for purchase at the gate
- A full tank of gas in Red Lodge—there is only one fuel station in Cooke City.
- Water, snacks, and extra food—limited food options in Cooke City
- Printed or offline maps—cell signal is extremely limited
- Binoculars or a spotting scope
- Layers—including sun protection, hat, gloves, windbreaker, rain gear
- First-aid kit and headlamp or flashlight
- Patience—wildlife sightings are not guaranteed, but always worth the wait
Optional but Helpful:
- Camp chairs or a tailgate blanket for viewing
- Tripod or zoom lens for photography
- Travel mug or thermos for sunrise outings
- Field guide for Yellowstone wildlife and birds
For Your Tervuren
- Dogs are not allowed on trails, boardwalks, or in the backcountry inside Yellowstone.
- Your Terv may accompany you at developed roadside pullouts and picnic areas—on a leash no longer than 6 feet in length.
- Keep windows up near bison or bears. Do not allow barking or aggressive posturing near wildlife.
- Never leave your dog in a parked vehicle, even briefly, in warm weather. There is no shade, and temps rise fast.
- If you're planning a long stop or hike into the park, leave your dog in comfortable, supervised lodging.
Where to Stay: Lodging in Cooke City
Staying overnight in Cooke City is ideal for anyone hoping to watch wildlife at dawn—and avoid rushing back over Beartooth Pass the same day.
Top Recommended Places to Stay:
1. Alpine Motel
- Immaculate, friendly, pet-friendly rooms
- alpine-motel.com
2. Big Moose Resort
- Quiet cabins with kitchenettes, great for dog owners
- bigmooseresort.com
3. Soda Butte Lodge
- Lodge-style rooms, bar, and restaurant right on Main Street
- sodabuttelodge.com
4. Cooke City Alpine Motel
- Basic, budget-conscious rooms with walkable access to everything
5. Skyline Guest Ranch (5–10 minutes east of town)
- Family-owned lodge and guide service
- Offers breakfast and horseback riding
- skylineguestranch.com
Tip: Call ahead for pet policies. Alpine Motel and Big Moose Resort are especially Terv-friendly.
Warnings & Critical Safety Advice
- Stay 100 yards away from bears and wolves, and 25 yards away from bison and elk. Use a zoom lens or scope.
- Do not feed wildlife. It’s illegal and causes long-term harm.
- Expect “animal jams.” Stay in your vehicle unless you’re in a designated pullout.
- Carry bear spray, and know how to use it—but do not leave it in a hot vehicle.
- Bring a paper map or GPS device—don’t rely on your phone for navigation.
- Check nps.gov/yell before you leave—road construction or weather can impact access.
Best Times to Visit Lamar Valley
- Sunrise or just before sunset offers the best wildlife activity and golden lighting.
- Late May through early October is ideal for road access and visibility.
- The early season (May–June) is ideal for bears and wolf pups, but snow can still be present along Beartooth Pass.
- Arrive by 7:00–7:30 AM for parking, solitude, and a chance to spot the elusive.
Suggested 2-Day Loop Itinerary
Day 1:
- Leave Red Lodge late morning via Beartooth Highway
- Enjoy scenic stops and short hikes (e.g., Beartooth Lake or Vista Point)
- Arrive in Cooke City mid-afternoon, check into your lodging
- Dinner in town, early to bed
Day 2:
- Depart before sunrise for Lamar Valley (15–20 min away)
- Set up at a pullout—bring scope, coffee, and patience
- Watch wolves, bears, bison, and birds of prey greet the morning
- Picnic breakfast or snack in the valley
- Depart by midday and return to Red Lodge via Beartooth (or complete a longer Yellowstone loop).
Final Note
Lamar Valley is not just a destination—it’s an immersion in a world that has remained unchanged for millennia.
If you go, go quietly, go slowly, and go prepared.
You’ll come home with dust on your boots, a sense of awe in your heart, and maybe—if you’re lucky—the sound of a wolf’s howl echoing in your memory.